This year Briggate is 800 years old and Thornton's Arcade is 130. I've been doing a bit of research recently and I thought I'd share it here....
Leeds was issued its city charter in 1207, At the time Leeds was pretty much just a one street town. Briggate, which means bridge street, was a market street where people would meet to trade goods and provide their sevices.
Maurice Paynell, the Lord of the Manor of Leeds, allocated plots of land on either side of Briggate and issued each plot to a local family or business. Most had cottages facing into the main street with large gardens to the rear where crops were grown, animals kept or products manufactured.
Briggate quickly grew into one of the busiest areas in the country to do business. The city charter allowed for the plots lining the street to be divided and sold off, which lead to further building and subdivision of the land.
Over the centuries these plots of land became so built up that small communities developed in each one. Each usually incorporated small cottage industry ‘factories’ and an Inn or Public House around a small central courtyard. Access to the yards was usually through a narrow passage, many of which still exist today.
One of the most well known of these Inns was the Old Talbot Inn. It was ornately decorated and, despite the unsanitary conditions, common in most of the yards, it was used as a meeting place for local judges and court officials. It was also a famous venue for cock fighting and gambling.
As today, Briggate was the geographical, social and commercial centre of the city. The Moot Hall (town hall) was originally right in the centre on the street, dividing it in two. And the old Market Cross which marked the centre of the city was originally located five yards from the current site of Thornton’s Arcade.
The Builder Magazine of October 1878 described Leeds as “numerically and commercially great”. Growth of the city was fuelled by 141 collieries in the north of England. “There are no flies in this pot of golden ointment. The town aims ever at something nobler and higher”.
Local historian Ralph Thoresby wrote that the Leeds cloth market was the life, not only of the town, but of these parts of England.
All the yards along Briggate which contained an Inn or Public House were required by law to have a public right of way. Public access was required from both the Briggate and Lands Lane ends of the yards.
The Victorian era was a time of rapid growth in England. Both the Corn Exchange and the new Town Hall had been built in Leeds by the end of the 1850’s, and more architecturally interesting public buildings were appearing across the city.
In the 1860’s local brewer and wine merchant Charles Thornton was the owner of The White Swan Inn. He had already expanded his pub with the Leeds City Varieties music hall and obviously saw how the city was developing around him. In 1875 he discreetly purchased the Old Talbot Inn, along with the established right of way. Soon after, he applied to demolish the Inn.
Charles Thornton was a well presented, tall man with a long white beard. He’s said to have been a quiet, private gentleman who only courted publicity when it benefited his business interests. He lived at Blenheim Terrace near Leeds University.
In Leeds at that time there were no arcades or covered shopping streets as we know them. Thornton must have been impressed by the shopping arcades which were springing up across Europe and he commissioned Charles Fowler, a Leeds architect, to design his proposed thoroughfare. But the Borough Engineer would not agree to the designs because of problems with the drainage.
Charles Thornton changed his architect, and engaged George Smith, whose altered plans met with approval. Life for Thornton’s Arcade began in 1877 and the street was publicly opened in 1878.
Thornton’s Arcade became instantly well known for its, now world famous, clock made by William Potts and Sons of Leeds. It features four life-size figures of characters from Sir Walter Scott's Ivanhoe. Richard Coeur-de-Lion, Friar Tuck, Robin Hood and Gurth the Swineherd strike their bells every 15 minutes.
The animated statues were made by the Leeds sculptor John Wormald Appleyard. Initially, the clock was so popular that it was temporarily shut down as the crowds it attracted were hindering trade for the shops.
At the east end of the arcade is the head of a woman, with long curling hair and a large hat, modelled on the painting of the Duchess of Devonshire by Gainsborough.
When Charles Thornton died in 1881, aged 61, his Arcade was already influencing the architecture of Briggate as more and more of the old yards were cleared to make way for more modern Victorian shopping streets. By 1900 there were eight arcades in Leeds.
In his ‘city of tomorrow’ article, from 1898, prominent urban planner Ebenezer Howard wrote “In wet weather Thornton’s Arcade is one of the favourite resorts of the people. Where manufactured goods are exposed for sale and most of that class of shopping, which requires the joy of deliberation, is done.”
Over the years the city had developed around Thornton’s Arcade. Briggate has been transformed into a street heavy with traffic to that of a safe pedestrian area. As the city swells, new businesses move into the town and transport improves very little has actually changed in the arcade.
In 1993 the arcade was renovated, re-painted and shop fronts were altered to appear the way they do today.
While a few large retailers call Thornton’s Arcade home, it’s the small independent shops which give the street its unique character. It remains a popular and busy thoroughfare. Nowhere in the city is there such a high concentration of shops which are run, day to day, by the people who own them. Sandwich bars, clothing, book and chocolate shops all thrive in Thornton’s Arcade, as do hair salons, accessory outlets, shoe shops and cafés. This historic landmark is best place in Leeds for new and established independent retailers.
Hey, that was pretty interesting. Those old folks had a way with words didn't they? Then: “In wet weather Thornton’s Arcade is one of the favourite resorts of the people. Where manufactured goods are exposed for sale and most of that class of shopping, which requires the joy of deliberation, is done.” Now: "When it's raining we go look at mobile phones in t'shops."
Did you see the Jonathan Meades programme on BBC2 7pm Wednesday? It was about the designer of Leeds Town Hall and Leeds Corn Exchange - Cuthbert Brodrick. Very interesting it was too. A good series. A fine man Mr Meades. Did you find any links to pictures of Ye Olde Leeds? I wonder what the Victorians would have made of comics? Nice one.
I worked on the refurb of the Corn Exchange (and the associated White Cloth Hall) some 18 years ago. Took us longer than it did to build it. A very interesting structure.
